Posts in Category


On a crisp October afternoon in Kashmir’s Lidderwat Valley, I scrambled ahead of our caravan to snap the perfect photo: My four-year-old daughter, Kiran, descending a winding trail on a pony, flanked by the milky blue Lidder River and the blazing yellow foliage of giant chinar trees. But as she rounded the bend I could tell that something had gone horribly wrong. Her face in tears, she held up a bloody pinky finger and screamed, “Daaaddyyy!” Trekking with small children in Kashmir, one of the most rugged (not to mention